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Joel’s Journal: Glacier National Park, Montana
By Joel Raeber
Glacier National Park in the northwest corner of Montana shares a border with Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, forming Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.
Glacier National Park preserves more than a million acres of forests, alpine meadows, lakes, rugged peaks and glacial-carved valleys in the Northern Rocky Mountains. It is home to more than 70 species of mammals, including grizzly bear, mountain lion, wolverine, gray wolf, lynx and bighorn sheep. While most wildlife remains elusive, even in the remote backcountry, bear are frequently seen along the roads and in meadows along trails, and bighorn sheep can be frequently seen along the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Though seldom seen, wolves may be heard howling at night at some of the more remote campgrounds.
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Big Horn Sheep like the high country of Glacier.
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More than 260 species of birds visit or live in the park, including harlequin ducks, dippers and golden eagles. The park's varied climate and its location at the headwaters of the Pacific, Atlantic and Hudson Bay drainages have given the park an incredible variety of plants and animals.
The park is named for its prominent glacier-carved terrain and remnant glaciers descended from the Ice Ages of 10,000 years ago. However, due to climate change, many of the parks signature glaciers are quickly disappearing, with 2009 one of the worst years on record for glacial melt-off.
In 1932, Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park, across the border in Canada, were designated Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. This designation celebrates the longstanding peace and friendship between the two nations. Both parks have since been designated International Biosphere Reserves and together were recognized in 1995 as a World Heritage Site.
US Highway 2 is the easiest way into the park from the east and west. Amtrak’s Empire Builder also brings campers and hikers to the park, and the train station is located near the park’s lodge in West Glacier. Many hikers get right off the train and head to the backcountry.
Glacier National Park is in bear and mountain lion country. Glacier provides the core of one of the largest remaining grizzly bear populations in the lower 48 states, and bears are frequent visitors to Glacier Park Campgrounds where they look for food, as well as other areas of the park. Because of the predatory nature of the wildlife, visitors should closely supervise children and pets whenever they are outdoors, even in developed areas. However, the only bears we saw when we visited were at a distance up the mountain side, but there were reports of bear sightings on several of the trails we hiked. One was seen in the campground an afternoon while we were hiking in another area. In addition, several wolf packs occupy parts of Glacier National Park.
Pets are allowed only in the developed areas, developed campsites and picnic areas and along roads open to motor vehicles. Pets must be on a leash no longer than six feet, under physical restraint, or caged at all times. All other areas of the park are closed to pets.
Glacier's western valleys receive the most rainfall, and daytime temperatures can exceed 90 degrees. It is frequently 10 to 15 degrees cooler at higher elevations. On the east side of the mountains, strong winds and sunny days predominate. Overnight lows throughout the park can drop to near 20 degrees, and snow can fall anytime. In August of 1992, a foot of snow fell on the northeastern corner of Glacier. Be prepared for a variety of conditions and pack accordingly. You may start the day in a t-shirt and shorts and need a parka by evening. Dress in layers, and always bring raingear.
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St. Mary Lake is near the Saint Mary campground on the east side of Glacier National Park, about one-half mile from the St. Mary visitor center.
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With 13 different campgrounds and more than 1,000 sites to choose from, there are lots of camping options available. RV campgrounds are located at Apgar, Fish Creek, Many Glacier, Rising Sun, and St. Mary. Sprague Creek is an improved campground for tent campers only. Primitive camping is available at Avalanche, Bowman Lake, Cut Bank, Kintla Lake, Logging Creek, Quartz Creek and Two Medicine.
Apgar campground is the largest campground in Glacier National Park with 194 sites. It is near Apgar Village, and the Apgar visitor center. The campground is trees shaded and provides tent and RV campers with shade and some privacy. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. There is a gift shop, camp store, and a casual restaurant. Lake McDonald is just a short walk from the campground.
Fish Creek campground has 178 sites and is located just off the Camas Road, two miles from Apgar Village on the west side of Glacier National Park. It is the second largest campground in the park. Sites are surrounded by trees that provide shade and some privacy to both tent and RV campers. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. Fish Creek is a good central location for many day hikes in the area, including the Rocky Point trail, which leads through a burn area from the Robert Fire of 2003. Morning and evening are great for viewing wildlife.
Fish Creek is one of two campgrounds in the park that take reservations. You may sign up through the National Reservation System at http://www.recreation.gov.
The campground at Many Glacier is the most popular campground in Glacier. Campsites are on a first- come, first- serve basis, and although there are 110 sites, due to the popularity of this campground, it is suggested you arrive early. Campsites are available for tent and RV campers, though there are only 13 sites that can accommodate vehicle lengths up to 35 feet. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water.
The Swiftcurrent Motor Inn is nearby with a gift shop and camp store. The historic Many Glacier Hotel, situated on Swiftcurrent Lake, is located down the road from the campground. There is lots of wildlife in the area, including bighorn sheep and bears. Many Glacier also provides access to some of the best day hikes in the park, including a hike to one of the park's largest glaciers.
Rising Sun campground has 83 sites just west of St. Mary and halfway along St. Mary Lake. Some sites are open, providing cool breezes throughout the day, while others are located among trees for those seeking shade. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. There is a camp store, restaurant, and token-operated showers.
Sprague Creek is a small, 25 site campground on the northeast shore of Lake McDonald, about nine miles from the west entrance of the park. Because it is right on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, the campground is not as quiet as other locations in the park. This campground is for tent campers; no towed units are allowed in Sprague Creek because of the condition of the road within the campground. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water.
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Mountain Goats can be seen frequently along the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
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St. Mary campground with 148 sites is the largest campground on the east side of Glacier National Park. It is only one-half mile from the St. Mary visitor center. The campground is located in an aspen tree grove. There are good views of Singleshot, East Flattop, and Red Eagle Mountains. Restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. A couple of miles down the road and outside the park are restaurants, gift shops, camp stores, gas, and a grocery store.
St. Mary is one of two campgrounds in the park that takes reservations. You may sign up through the National Reservation System at http://www.recreation.gov/. Sites can be reserved June 1 through September 3.
Two Medicine, with 99 sites, is 13 miles from East Glacier. Before the Going-to-the-Sun Road opened for vehicle traffic, this was the most popular campground. Two Medicine is now a quiet and peaceful location in Glacier National Park. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Thirteen sites can accommodate RVs up to 32 feet. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. Two Medicine Chalet, built by the Great Northern Railway, now serves as a camp store and gift shop and is a registered historic landmark.
Avalanche campground has 87 sites and is located in one of the most popular sections of Glacier National Park west of the Continental Divide. The campground is in an old growth cedar and hemlock forest, which helps keep the area cool during the summer months. There are sites for tent and RV campers; however, only 50 sites will accommodate vehicle lengths up to 26 feet. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water.
The Cut Bank campground has only 14 sites. It is on the east side of Glacier National Park and provides lots of peace and quiet not to be found in larger campgrounds within the park. The campground is accessed by a five-mile dirt road off of highway 89. RVs are not recommended due to the nature of the road and campground layout. There is no water available at Cut Bank Campground; it is advised that you bring in your own drinking water.
Bowman Lake campground is located in the North Fork area of Glacier National Park approximately 32 miles from the west entrance, and 30 miles from the Canadian border. There are 48 sites. The drive to Bowman Lake is a very slow, dusty, and bumpy ride on dirt roads, and it passes through the tiny community of Polebridge and sections of the park that were burned in the 1988 forest fire. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Bowman Lake because of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. Turning vehicles around is difficult.
Mountains tower over Bowman Lake; the campground is located close to the shore and campsites are within the trees. It is great for tent campers looking for peace and quiet, but be sure to pack bug repellent or head nets because of mosquitoes.
Kintla Lake campground is Glacier National Park's most remote front country and car camping campground, with 13 sites in the upper most northwest section of the park known as the North Fork, approximately 40 miles from the west entrance and the Canadian border. Though the drive is very slow and bumpy on dirt roads, the scenery along the way is spectacular.
Due to its remote location, the campground is very quiet and is very rarely filled, offering tent campers lots of solitude. The campground sits on Kintla Lake. A hand pump is available for potable water, and pit toilets are located in the campground. It isn't uncommon to hear the howls of wolves at night.
The Logging Creek Campground is one of the smaller campgrounds in Glacier with seven sites. It is located on the west side of the park, south of Polebridge. Access is via the Inside North Fork Road, a dusty, narrow, winding road. RVs are not recommended. No services are available in the area, and Polebridge, none miles north, has limited services.
Quartz Creek campground has only seven sites also, all primitive. It is located on the west side of the park and is accessed by the Inside North Fork Road, a rough, dusty, dirt road with many blind curves and few pullouts. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Quartz Creek due to the nature of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. There is no water available at Quartz Creek Campground, it is advised that you bring in your own drinking water.
Due to the weather, campgrounds are closed through the winter months, with most opening in May and June as the snow melts and road crews clear the roads. For 2010, most roads and campgrounds are scheduled to be open by June 1. For the 2010 season campground planned openings, visit: http://www.nps.gov/glac/parknews/news10-21.htm.
Like most national parks, utility hook-ups are not provided and connection to water, sewer, or electrical outlets is prohibited. Campsite stay is limited to seven consecutive days. Campsites at Fish Creek and St. Mary can be reserved up to six months in advance. RVs can use generators in some campground areas at limited times throughout the day, and generator use is prohibited in some areas at all times.
As mentioned earlier, Glacier National Park is in bear and mountain lion country. Bears and mountain lions are frequent visitors to Glacier Park Campgrounds where they look for food. When not in immediate use, all food, cooking appliances, utensils, storage containers (empty or full), and pet items, that may attract or provide a reward to bears, must be kept in a closed, hard-sided vehicle, day and night. This includes coolers, thermos bottles, cans, water bottles and any other beverage containers, regardless of use or content. Campers without vehicles must secure items in available food lockers or use hanging devices. Bear-proof trash cans are provided throughout the park. Rangers and campground hosts regularly patrol the campgrounds to enforce the regulations. Violation of food storage regulations may result in a $50 fine and/or confiscation of improperly-stored items.
One of the highlights of Glacier National Park is a drive on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. This road runs 50 miles through the park's wild interior, winding around mountainsides, and treating visitors to some of the best sights in northwest Montana as it crosses the Continental Divide.
In several places, the road has sheer rock walls on the inside, with a cliff edge drop on the opposite of the road, making for very “interesting” drives. It is not a road to be traveling in large RVs. In addition, the cold air spilling off the glaciers frequently causes dense fog along the road. When we were there, drivers had to be escorted along a portion of the road by a person walking in front of the car to prevent drivers from driving off the edge because of low visibility.
The road is usually opened by snowplows by the end of May and closes in mid fall, depending on the snow fall. For current status on Glacier National Park roads: http://home.nps.gov/applications/glac/roadstatus/roadstatus.cfm.
Glacier is big, wild, majestic, and spectacular. Most people visit Glacier National Park because of its scenery. A few of Glacier Park’s glaciers can be seen from roads; their blue ice and crevasses distinguish them from the hundreds of snowfields above the timberline. Getting behind the scenery requires hiking. The deeper you hike into Glacier, the more interesting and fascinating it becomes. Glacier has more than 700 miles of hiking trails that provide many outstanding opportunities for both short hikes and extended backpacking trips. Before setting out on a hike, stop by a park visitor center to obtain needed permits, warnings and advisories. Popular trails include Trail of the Cedars, Forest and Fire, Hidden Lake, Sun Point, and Running Eagle Falls.
Glacier National Park in the U.S. adjoins Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, and southbound hikers from Waterton Lakes can hike across the border into the United States at Goat Haunt, a United States Class B Port of Entry, open from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. These are the only hours during which hikers will be allowed to cross the border. Travel between Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada, and the Goat Haunt Ranger Station in the U.S. requires an official government-issued photo identification card for U.S. or Canadian citizens or permanent residents (U.S. Passport, Enhanced Drivers License, U.S. Passport Card, or NEXUS Card). All others must carry a valid passport. Hikers arriving at Goat Haunt who do not present proper documents are denied entry and immediately sent back to Canada.
Goat Haunt is NOT a Canadian Port of Entry; therefore, hikers traveling north from Glacier into Canada must phone Canadian Customs for acceptance/rejection by Canadian authorities.
Fishing is permitted in most Glacier Park lakes and rivers. However, the National Park Service no longer stocks fish in park waters, as was done in the past. The introduction of exotic game fish was found to be detrimental to Glacier’s native fish. The native cutthroat trout has been all but eliminated from several lakes, where it was once the dominant species. The Park Service is exploring re-establishing native fish in some waters where they have been eliminated or replaced by hybrid populations.
No license or permits are required to fish inside the boundaries of Glacier National Park. But, fishermen need to stop at a Visitor Center or Ranger Station to obtain a current copy of park fishing regulations.
Despite its challenges, bicycling is popular on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. It is a challenging way to see Glacier National Park. The ride from Sprague Creek to Logan Creek takes about 45 minutes, and from Logan Creek to Logan Pass is about three hours. There are a limited number of sites at several campgrounds for bicyclists. There are no bicycle rentals available inside the park.
Bicycles are restricted to roadways, bike routes, or parking areas and are not allowed on trails. Cyclists must observe all traffic regulations, ride in single file only, pull off the road if four or more vehicles stack up behind them, and attach a bright flag on a pole to the bike. For safety and to ease congestion, there are restrictions on sections of the Going-to-the-Sun Road from June 15 through Labor Day.
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Glacier National Park was opened in 1910 and is celebrating its 100- year anniversary
in 2010. Several events are planned throughout the year to mark the milestone.
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If you have a favorite campground, RV park or other area you’d like to give your two cents on, email it to us
and get your 15 minutes of fame that Andy Warhol promised you. Photos are always appreciated.
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